#3 SINFUL SYNTHETICS? SPOTLIGHT ON PHENOXYETHANOL

PHENOXYETHANOL

Phenoxyethanol is a chemical that many people can be sensitive to, even in small amounts. As a result, ECOCERT banned its use in cosmetic formulations, and the Soil Association followed suit in 2012 when it joined the COSMOS European Organic Certification program. 

In the cosmetics industry, Phenoxyethanol is commonly used as a stabilizer in perfumes and as a preservative. For those interested in the science, Phenoxyethanol’s chemical name is 2-phenoxyethanol (also known as ethylene glycol phenyl ether). It’s a colourless, oily liquid from the glycol ether family.

While it can be found naturally in small amounts in green tea and chicory, the version used in cosmetics is synthetically produced in a lab. When concerns about parabens surfaced, many cosmetic manufacturers sought an effective alternative preservative, and Phenoxyethanol seemed like a solid choice.

It offers broad-spectrum antimicrobial activity, fighting bacteria, mould, and yeast. Regulations now recommend that it be used in amounts under 1%. (Note: Ingredients are listed in order of concentration, so if Phenoxyethanol appears near the top of an ingredient list, it may exceed that limit.)

So, why is Phenoxyethanol controversial? While research on its safety is mixed, some experts believe it could be harmful. Prolonged exposure has been linked to issues like contact dermatitis, eczema flare-ups, reproductive toxicity, and neurotoxicity.

As a result, some brands opt to switch to a more lenient standard, such as the Organic Food Federation (UK), which permits Phenoxyethanol and isn’t part of COSMOS, instead of reformulating without Phenoxyethanol. 

That’s a Red flag !!

Additionally, the use of Phenoxyethanol in some ‘natural’ skincare products has raised concerns about its environmental impact. It’s not biodegradable and can accumulate in water sources over time. While it has been approved globally for use in cosmetic products at concentrations of up to 1.0%, its safety continues to raise concerns.

Safety Concerns:

1.      EU Regulations: The European Union classifies Phenoxyethanol as toxic or harmful for products intended for use around the mouth and lips, due to the risk of ingestion.

2.      Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS): The MSDS for Phenoxyethanol highlights potential risks such as skin and lung irritation, toxicity to the kidneys, nervous system, and liver, as well as the possibility of organ damage from prolonged exposure. However, these warnings typically refer to undiluted Phenoxyethanol or scenarios involving heavy exposure during the manufacturing process. The risks are much lower in cosmetic products where the concentration is much smaller.

3.      Allergic Reactions and Eczema: Phenoxyethanol has been linked to allergic reactions and eczema in some individuals. However, the Cosmetics Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has deemed Phenoxyethanol safe for use at typical concentrations, as it showed no significant irritation or sensitization in clinical studies.

4.      Concerns for Children: The dangers of Phenoxyethanol exposure are considered more significant for children, particularly infants. The U.S. FDA warned in 2008 that a nipple cream containing Phenoxyethanol could harm infants by depressing the central nervous system, causing symptoms like vomiting and diarrhea. As a result, the French National Agency for the Safety of Medicines and Health Products (ANSM) recommended that the concentration of Phenoxyethanol be reduced to 0.4% in products for infants under 3 years old.

5.      Contamination with 1,4-Dioxane: Phenoxyethanol can sometimes be contaminated with 1,4-dioxane, a carcinogenic impurity that can result from the ethoxylation process used in its production. Though this substance can be removed, some studies have found that up to 46% of personal care products tested contained traces of 1,4-dioxane, suggesting manufacturers may not be effectively eliminating it.

6.      Genetic Mutations in Animals: Early studies from the 1980s linked Phenoxyethanol to DNA mutations in animals, but more recent studies have suggested that the ingredient is not mutagenic or teratogenic (causing birth defects) when tested in controlled conditions.

7.      Health Concerns in Animals: Some studies have linked Phenoxyethanol to endocrine disruption, bladder damage, and pulmonary oedema (fluid accumulation in the lungs) in animals. However, the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) concluded in 2015 that Phenoxyethanol does not exhibit oestrogenic activity.

Despite these concerns, several regulatory bodies, including the Cosmetics Ingredient Review (CIR), continue to affirm that Phenoxyethanol is safe for use in cosmetics when used within regulated concentrations.

However, it remains important for consumers to stay informed about potential risks, especially for vulnerable groups such as infants.

IT IS ALSO IMPORTANT to remember  that while a government Agency like the EPA in either the United States or Canada may conclude that a substance consideredto be toxic by many is actually safe, they are also responsible for approving and allowing into circulation, some of the most hazardous chemicals known to cause harm.

For example,the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) approved a component of boat fuel derived from discarded plastic, despite its own risk assessment indicating that exposure to the substance over a lifetime would result in a near-certain cancer risk for everyone affected.

According to current and former EPA scientists, this level of risk is unprecedented—one million times higher than the agency's usual threshold for new chemicals and six times more dangerous than the lifetime risk of lung cancer from smoking.

Under federal law, the EPA is required to conduct safety reviews before allowing new chemicals to be introduced into the market. If a substance is found to pose an unreasonable risk to human health or the environment, the agency must either reduce that risk or reject the chemical outright.

However, in this case, the EPA disregarded its own findings, dismissing its scientists' concerns and approving the new boat fuel ingredient for Chevron’s refinery in Pascagoula, Mississippi. Despite the potential for the substance to pollute air and water, the EPA imposed no significant protective measures—other than requiring workers to wear gloves, according to official records. (ProPublica.org)

Enough said. 

We choose NOT to use Phenoxyethanol in our products for several reasons:

1. Ecocert and COSMOS Standards: Phenoxyethanol is NOT approved for use in Ecocert and COSMOS certified organic formulations. We align with these stringent standards to offer products that meet the highest organic and natural cosmetic criteria.

2. Sustainability: We are committed to minimizing our environmental footprint. By avoiding Phenoxyethanol, we contribute to reducing non-biodegradable substances in skin care products.

Sohma Naturals Skin Care Manufacturing

Authentically Natural | Thoughtfully Formulated | Organic Skin Care

©  January 2025 Nella Pidutti